You'll never admire the place where you
spent most of you life, no matter how wonderful it may be, as when
you take your camera and go sightseeing, while being a host and a
tour-guide to a foreign friend. It is the town you live in, the town
where you went to school in, where you had so many crazy nights out
with your high-school friends, with that hidden street where someone
stole your first kiss, with the recently closed cute little shop
where you bought that amazing dress which makes you look 5 kg
thinner, the square where you finally dated the guy you've been
secretly looking at for the last 5 years, right at the moment when
the blabbermouth friend of you suspicious mom ran into you. I was a
traveler myself, for so many times, wondering the streets of Paris,
Tokyo, Hong Kong, Milan, Vienna, Cape Town, always with my out-dated
camera (it was never easy to spare some extra money for a new camera
when there's the new collection fresh in stores, and when that
polyester shirt, which, by the way, will be 80% on sale in a month,
would go perfectly with the skirt I managed to dig out on the last
year's sales) trying to capture at least a fragment of the surreal
atmosphere, thinking sadly '...why wasn't I born here..'
However, thanks to my friend Michelle,
a born New Yorker with Croatian roots (I'm not sure if you've
noticed, but if we would add the number of people with 'Croatian
roots' worldwide, to the 4.5 million Croats, God only knows what the
number would be. I just love it how Croatian journalists continuously
find new stars who somehow always turn out to have a grandpa who left
Croatia long ago...that must be the reason all those stars are so
successful) and her desire to walk the paths that her pa and gramps
used to cross, I had the opportunity to see my home town from a new
perspective.
One day Jere, Michelle and myself, this
time with Michelle's super modern camera, started an adventure called
'let's meet the old part of town'. Michelle kept cheering non-stop!
She was ecstatic about Gorica, which is, in my opinion, the most
picturesque part of town. She tried to touch every stone, wondering
what monument could that be, trying to capture the genuine Dalmatian
atmosphere by taking pictures of old stone houses, staircases, green
wooden window sheds, entrance halls, niches, old house-to-house
drying ropes, repeating again and again how amazing it was and how
she couldn't believe people actually lived there. My only thought was
-
'Hellooo, you live in New York, what's
all the fuss about?! ' Just like most tourists, Michelle was
surprised by the number of stairs around the old city centre. There's
an interesting fact how last year, tourist guides in Šibenik,
inspired by continuous tourist questions about the exact number of
stairs, decided to count them all up. They came down to 2851 stairs,
a number that made Šibenik the city with the biggest number of stair
in Mediterranean. However, Dubrovnik tourist guides though it was
simply impossible for Šibenik to have more stairs than Dubrovnik,
and decided to do the same thing, counting 5423 stairs in the old
part of town (the story is a great example of our character, as
well). Back to our mission. We walked with Michelle along Jurja
Dalmatinca Street and found ourselves in front of 'Četiri bunara'
(The Four Wells). There you'll find one of the best restaurants in
Šibenik - Pelegrini (my own personal favorite, and judging by the
comments on some of the most renown web pages - a large number of
tourist's favorite, too). Genuine groceries prepared in an
imaginative and innovative way, will definitely be an exciting new
touch for your demanding taste buds. Add a glass of supreme wine,
sitting 'face-to-face' with St James' Cathedral, being served by
hospitable waiters.... mmmm!!
Četiri bunara are also the location
where this year's Off Jazz&Blues Festival takes place. Remarkable
atmosphere and renown names of jazz and blues scene are surely
something you must visit! The festival takes place at the end of July
and lasts for 3 days. It's a definite must see!
We finally arrived to St James'
Cathedral, which was enlisted on World Cultural Heritage List by
UNESCO in 2000. You can only start imagining Michelle's facial
expressions.
I could write pages and pages about
this architectonic beauty, which still leaves me breathless (despite
the fact I see it on daily basis) - it simply cannot be ignored, but
I'm going to let the experts tell the story. The Cathedral is
situated on the Republic of Croatia Square, next to the City Hall,
the Duke's and the Bishop's Pallace, and traditionally it has been
the stage for the opening of the International Children's Festival
for so many years. People in Šibenik have a special bond with the
Festival. It must be the fact that most of us personally took part in
creating this story through numerous art, drama and music workshops
and plays. It also was a perfect excuse for parents, because of
Festival's educational function. The Festival starts at the end of
June and lasts for two weeks. It's the time when the entire old part
of town, including Gorica, Medulić, Dobrić, becomes a big stage for
the children from all around the world.
After few hours of sight-seeing we
decided to have something to eat, and as true hosts we took our guest
to a genuine Dalmatian tavern 'Marenda'. It is not one of those
luxury restaurants, it has the interior of a real old tavern, and
it's the perfect place to enjoy homemade Dalmatian meals with a glass
of good home made wine. You know what they say, when in Rome... Later
we walked down Zagrebačka Street (rich in sacral heritage of
Šibenik), where you'll find Uspenie Bogomatere Church, which used to
be a monastery for Benedictines, but only those from noble families.
There was no place for poor girls there. They had to go to St Luca
monastery. With the arrival of Napoleon, the monastery was closed,
and the church was given to the episcopacy of Serbian Orthodox
Church. Just across to the church you'll find Giro espresso caffe
bar, with the best coffee in town. At the end of our journey we left
Jere to watch a football match enjoying his beer, and decided to
finish our adventure with shopping, just like most women would. On
Dobrić Square you'll find an amazing boutique, owned by the famous
Croatian designer from Šibenik, Loredana Bahorić . After a glass of
good wine we needed a good rest, and promised Michelle to take her to
one of the most beautiful beaches in the area. She wasn't
disappointed! The island of Zlarin turned out to be the perfect
choice!
That is how my New York friend helped
me to realize just how special my home town is, how I would always
recommend it to anyone, and how proud I felt for being a small part
of this grand story.
Check out our accommodation offer at www.kola-fjaka.com
Check out our accommodation offer at www.kola-fjaka.com
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